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When it comes to tree removal or trimming, a lot of homeowners want the cheapest deal. That’s understandable—but it can also be dangerous. In Louisville, there are dozens of so-called “tree guys” offering fast and cheap services. Problem is, most of them aren’t insured, aren’t trained, and aren’t qualified to be anywhere near your property with a chainsaw. At Shults Tree Service , we’ve seen the aftermath firsthand—broken fences, smashed roofs, injured workers, and homeowners left holding the bill. So before you let someone start cutting in your yard, here’s what you need to know. 1. If They Get Hurt, You  Could Get Sued Tree work is one of the most dangerous jobs in the country. If an uninsured climber falls out of your tree, your homeowners insurance could be on the hook. You could get sued for medical bills, lost wages, or permanent disability. Ask yourself: do you want your house, your car, or your savings on the line because you hired a guy with a Craigslist ad and a rusty chainsaw? 2. No Coverage Means No Accountability When a tree crashes through your roof or a limb falls on your neighbor’s car, the last thing you want to hear is “Sorry, not my problem. "Uninsured tree cutters have no liability insurance , so you're left eating the cost if something goes wrong. At Shults Tree Service, we carry full liability insurance and workers' comp , so our customers don’t have to worry. We do the job right—or we make it right. Period. 3. Most of Them Aren’t Arborists… or Even Skilled Climbers Just because someone owns a pickup and a chainsaw doesn’t mean they know what they’re doing. Untrained workers might spike a healthy tree you wanted to keep, make dangerous cuts, or drop heavy wood where it shouldn’t go. We’re not weekend warriors. Shults Tree Service is ISA Certified  and our crew includes skilled climbers, not amateurs. We use advanced rigging techniques, climbing systems, and safety protocols to protect both your property and your trees. 4. Louisville Law Is Catching Up—But It’s Still on You Some cities are starting to crack down on unlicensed or uninsured contractors, but enforcement is slow. If your contractor doesn’t have proper coverage and damages power lines, city property, or utilities, you could still be liable . The burden falls on the homeowner  to hire someone legitimate. 5. How to Tell If a Tree Company Is Legit Before you hire anybody, ask for: Proof of liability insurance (and call  the provider to verify it) Proof of workers' comp insurance ISA Certification or proof of training A written estimate and contract If they give you a sob story or say “trust me,” run. Don’t Gamble with Your Home. Call a Local Pro You Can Trust. At Shults Tree Service , we’re local, insured, certified, and trained to do the job the right way—the first time. Whether it’s a dead tree hanging over your house or a cleanup after a storm, we’ll give you peace of mind, not a legal headache. 📍 Serving Louisville and the surrounding areas 📞 Call or text us for a free estimate: 502-552-2350 🌐 www.shultstreeservice.com

” 🌀 Introduction: Some trees stand tall through wind, lightning, and hail. Others? They snap like matchsticks. The truth is, not all trees are built to weather the storm . And if the wrong species is planted too close to your home—or not properly maintained—you could be looking at serious damage when the next big system rolls through. Here’s a hard truth from the field: Most tree failures were preventable. 🌳 1. Bradford Pear – The Most Dangerous Tree in Suburbia Fast-growing, weak-wooded. Prone to splitting at the trunk due to narrow branch angles. Why it fails:  One gust of wind and it shatters like glass. What to do:  Remove and replace. It’s a ticking time bomb. 🌳 2. Silver Maple – Big Shade, Bigger Problems Huge canopy and shallow roots. Often planted too close to houses in the ‘60s–‘80s. Why it fails:  Weak branches, decay-prone limbs, and heavy weight. What to do:  Regular crown thinning or removal if roots are lifting sidewalks or foundations. 🌳 3. Hackberry – The Silent Crasher Looks solid until you get up close. Why it fails:  Heart rot, fungal infections, and trunk splitting. What to do:  Have it inspected yearly. Remove if rot is visible or cavity is deep. 🌳 4. Willow Trees – The Water-Hungry Widowmaker Loves water. Grows fast. Breaks easy. Why it fails:  Extremely brittle wood. Falls in chunks. What to do:  Prune aggressively, or remove if growing near a structure or septic. 🌳 5. Boxelder – The Neglected Cousin of the Maple Often sprouts in fence lines and behind garages. Why it fails:  Multi-trunked and brittle. High failure rate in storms. What to do:  Cut it down before it becomes a problem. 🛠️ Bonus Section: Signs a Tree is Likely to Fail Mushrooms or fungus near the base Cracks in the trunk Dead limbs up high Leaning more than 15 degrees Bark falling off Soil heaving near roots Remember:  Trees fail before  the storm—most people just don’t notice until it’s too late. 🔧 What You Can Do: Have an ISA Certified Arborist inspect your trees annually. Avoid planting fast-growing species near structures. Thin crowns and remove deadwood regularly. Don’t wait for limbs to fall. Call when you see a problem , not when you hear  it hit the roof. 🚨 Final Thought: A falling tree doesn’t care about your siding, your car, or your kid’s bedroom window. It just falls. And it’s your responsibility to keep your property safe. Let us help. 📞 CTA:Worried about one of your trees? Contact Shults Tree Service  today for a full tree risk assessment before the next storm hits. 👉 Call us now or schedule your inspection online at www.shultstreeservice.com

Trees are one of the most valuable features of your property—until they become a hazard. As ISA Certified Arborists , Shults Tree Service  has seen firsthand how dangerous a compromised tree can become, especially during Kentucky’s storm season. If you’re asking, “Do I need to remove this tree?”  — this guide will help you recognize the warning signs before it's too late. 1. The Tree Is Leaning or Shifting Position A tree that suddenly leans or shifts—especially after high winds or heavy rain—may be showing signs of root failure or structural weakness . ✅ Danger Level:  High ✅ Common in:  Large hardwoods and trees growing in shallow or soggy soil ✅ What to Do:  Call Shults Tree Service in Louisville, KY  for a professional inspection. 2. Large Dead Branches Are Falling Also called widowmakers , large dead limbs falling from the canopy are not just a sign of decline—they’re deadly. ✅ Red Flag:  Sudden limb drops during calm weather ✅ Hazard:  These limbs can fall without warning, especially over driveways, homes, or power lines ✅ Solution:  Safe and strategic removal by trained ISA-certified climbers 3. Mushrooms or Fungi Around the Base Fungus growth—especially mushrooms or shelf fungi—around the trunk or root flare often signals internal decay or rot . The tree may look healthy on the outside, but it's dying from the inside out. ⚠️ Look for: Soft or spongy bark Cracked or heaving soil around the base Hollow sounds when tapping the trunk 4. Cracks, Splits, or Bark Falling Off Deep vertical cracks, open seams, or peeling bark are clear signs of structural stress or disease. Once a tree’s outer layer is compromised, it can no longer protect itself from pests, water infiltration, or decay. 🌳 Tip from Shults Tree Service: Cracks can worsen quickly, especially during wind events. Don’t ignore them. 5. Bare Limbs or No Leaves in Growing Season If major limbs stay bare while the rest of the tree is leafed out, you're likely dealing with dieback . This is usually caused by disease, drought, pests, or internal decay. 🔎 A tree missing foliage on one-third or more of its canopy may be beyond saving. 6. Insect Infestation or Woodpecker Damage Wood-boring insects like emerald ash borers , carpenter ants, or termites often invade already weakened trees. If you notice woodpecker holes , they’re likely feeding on the insects inside—another serious indicator of decay. 📢 Hollow-sounding trunks and sawdust-like material (frass) at the base are telltale signs of infestation. 7. Previous Storm Damage Trees that lost limbs or cracked during storms may appear stable, but damage below the surface often worsens with time. These weak spots can fail unexpectedly, especially in future wind events. 🌬️ Kentucky storms are no joke—don’t take the chance. Why Choose Shults Tree Service? At Shults Tree Service , we’re more than just tree cutters—we’re ISA Certified Arborists  with years of experience in advanced climbing, rigging, and tree health diagnostics. We serve Louisville, KY , and the surrounding areas with integrity, skill, and safety-first operations. ✅ ISA Certified ✅ Fully Licensed & Insured ✅ Locally Owned and Operated ✅ Trusted Tree Removal Experts in Louisville Schedule a Free Tree Inspection Today If you’ve noticed any of these 7 warning signs , don’t wait until a dangerous situation turns into an emergency. 📞 Call Shults Tree Service at 502-552-2350 🌐 Visit: www.shultstreeservice.com 📍 Serving Louisville, Jeffersontown, St. Matthews, Shepherdsville, and surrounding Kentuckiana areas 💡 Bonus Tip: Not every tree needs to be removed—but every risky tree should be inspected. Call us for an honest, expert opinion. At Shults Tree Service , we won’t upsell you—we’ll just tell you the truth.

Title: Strengthen Your Trees: Preparing for Storm Season As storm seasons approach protecting your property becomes increasingly vital. One often overlooked aspect of storm preparedness is ensuring the strength and resilience of the trees surrounding your home. Strong, healthy trees not only enhance the beauty of your landscape but also provide crucial protection against high winds and heavy rains. Here are some tips on how to help make your trees stronger for the storm season: Regular Pruning and Trimming :Regular pruning and trimming help remove dead or weak branches that could become projectiles during a storm. Trim branches that are close to your house, power lines, or other structures to minimize potential damage. Proper Tree Maintenance: Maintain overall tree health by watering , fertilizing , and mulching as needed. Healthy trees are better equipped to withstand the stress of severe weather conditions. Support Weak Branches :If you notice any branches that appear weak or prone to breaking, consider providing support by installing braces or cables. This can help prevent branches from snapping off during high winds. FREE ESTIMATE CLICK HERE Inspect for Signs of Disease or Pest Infestation: Regularlyi nspect your trees for signs of disease or pest infestation, such as unusual discoloration, abnormal growths, or insect activity. Addressing these issues promptly can prevent further damage and improve tree health. Avoid Overcrowding: Overcrowded trees are more susceptible to wind damage as they compete for space and resources. Thin out crowded areas by selectively removing smaller or less desirable trees to reduce competition and allow the remaining trees to grow stronger. Plant Wind-Resistant Species: When planting new trees, choose species that are known for their wind resistance. Native species adapted to your region's climate are often the best choice as they are naturally suited to withstand local weather conditions. FREE ESTIMATE CLICK HERE Secure Loose Items: Before a storm hits, secure loose items in your yard that could become projectiles, such as lawn furniture, decorations, or gardening tools. These items can cause significant damage to trees and other property if picked up by strong winds. Consult a Professional Arborist: If you're unsure about the health or stability of your trees, consider consulting a professional arborist for an assessment. An arborist can identify potential hazards and provide recommendations for improving tree strength and resilience. FREE ESTIMATE CLICK HERE By taking proactive steps to strengthen your trees before storm season, you can help minimize the risk of property damage and ensure the safety of your home and family. Remember that investing in tree care and maintenance not only protects your property but also contributes to the overall health and beauty of your landscape for years to come. Shults Tree Service ISA Arborist can help! FREE ESTIMATE CLICK HERE

In tree work — just like in life — strong roots matter. At Shults Tree Service , we’re more than climbers and sawdust-makers. We’re part of the fabric of Louisville, KY , rooted in the same community we serve. And we believe in something simple but powerful: Take care of your people, and your people will take care of you. 🏡 We're Local — and Proud of It We’re not a big-name chain with out-of-town trucks and generic service. We’re a family-owned, Louisville-based crew  that knows this city — from the tall oaks of St. Matthews to the storm-damaged maples in Fern Creek. When you hire Shults Tree Service , your money doesn’t go to a corporate headquarters across the country. It stays right here in our town — feeding our families, supporting other small businesses, and strengthening the local economy. 🤝 Why Community Support Matters Louisville’s filled with small, hardworking businesses just like ours — electricians, landscapers, mechanics, roofers, coffee shops, food trucks — the people who keep this city moving . But we’re in a world that’s leaning more and more toward mega-corporations and AI automation. Local tradesmen and small business owners are getting pushed to the sidelines. But here’s the truth: community can’t be outsourced. When a storm hits, you don’t want a 1-800 number. You want a local name you trust — someone who’ll pick up the phone, show up, and treat your property like it’s their own. That’s us. 🪓 Family-Owned, Old-School Values Shults Tree Service  isn’t just a business — it’s personal. We work with our hands. We climb with skill. We show up when we say we will. Our reputation isn’t built on marketing budgets — it’s built on word of mouth, honest labor, and a job well done. We believe in: Hard work Fair prices Real accountability Respect for every customer — no matter the size of the job We know that trust is earned — not bought. And that’s why we fight every day to earn yours. 💬 Shout Out to the Local Legends Louisville is packed with local legends doing big things on a small scale. We see you — the family-run restaurants, the welders, the farmers, the shopkeepers. You are what makes this city real . We encourage everyone reading this: Buy local. Hire local. Support the families in your community. Because when you lift up your neighbor, the whole city stands taller. 📍 Louisville Roots. Up the Tree. On the Job. If you’re in the Louisville area and need professional tree work, call a local company that knows your streets, understands your trees, and respects your property. We don’t just work here — we live here .

As spring ramps up, your trees are waking up fast — and if you don’t pay attention right now , you’re setting yourself up for bigger (and more expensive) problems later this year. Here’s the hard truth: Spring neglect = summer disasters. 1. Tree Health Inspections Are NOT Optional Trees are like any living thing — they get diseases, pest infestations, and structural weaknesses. Early spring is the best time to catch: Cracks and splits  from winter storms Deadwood  that could fall on your house, car, or family Signs of pest damage  (like boreholes, early wilting, or bark shedding) Structural weaknesses  (like codominant stems or included bark) If you ignore these warning signs, you’re giving problems a few months to turn into emergencies . Real-world example : A small crack in April becomes a 2-ton limb on your roof during a June thunderstorm. 2. Pruning Right Now Sets the Whole Season Most trees tolerate light spring pruning well, especially: Dead, dying, or broken branches Water sprouts and suckers Branches growing toward structures But here’s the rule: Get it done before  the tree puts all its energy into new leaf growth. After full leaf-out, pruning stresses the tree more. Smart, minimal pruning in late April/early May gives you: Healthier canopy structure Less risk of storm damage Cleaner-looking trees through summer and fall Pro tip:  Hire a qualified arborist who understands proper cut placement, not just someone with a chainsaw and a business card. 3. Mulch Is a Non-Negotiable If you haven’t mulched yet, you're behind . A fresh ring of mulch: Retains soil moisture Reduces soil temperature swings Chokes out weeds Protects the trunk from string trimmers and mowers The catch: No volcano mulching. Keep mulch 3–4 inches thick  and 6 inches away from the trunk . A mulch volcano holds moisture against the bark = guaranteed rot, pests, and death. 4. Watering Prep (Yes, Now) If you had a dry winter, your trees may already be stressed. Root systems grow NOW, not in July when it’s 100°F.Start deep watering (slow soak at the root zone) once a week if rainfall is under 1" . Don’t wait until the leaves wilt. That’s already too late. Bottom Line Right now — not in June, not in July  — is when you set your trees up for a healthy, low-risk season. Inspect. Prune. Mulch. Water. Simple. Brutal. Necessary. If you can’t do it yourself, hire a professional who understands trees, not just someone who owns a saw.

By Michael Shults, ISA-Certified Arborist & Owner of Shults Tree Service – Louisville, KY Spring’s here, and everybody’s rushing to the garden center like it’s Black Friday. I get it—fresh trees and plants bring life to a yard. But here’s the truth most folks don’t want to hear: planting wrong kills more trees than storms, bugs, or disease.  And most of the time, it’s human error. If you're going to spend good money on a tree or shrub, do it right the first time—or don’t bother. As an ISA-Certified Arborist, here’s what actually matters when it comes to planting. 1. Pick the Right Tree for the Right Spot Stop planting the wrong tree in the wrong place. Sun vs. Shade : Know what the species needs. Cramming a full-sun tree in a shaded yard is a waste of time. Soil Drainage : Clay-heavy? Sandy? Poor drainage kills roots fast. Do a simple hole-water test and watch how it drains. Mature Size : That little sapling will be 40 feet tall and smashing gutters in 10 years. Plan for the full-grown tree. 2. Don’t Plant Too Deep (Most People Do) Golden rule: Root flare should be visible above ground. Always. The “root flare” is the base of the trunk where it spreads into roots. Bury that, and you’re basically slow-choking your tree. Dig wide, not deep. Hole should be: As deep as the root ball 2–3x wider than the container or root mass No flare showing = no oxygen = girdling roots = early death. 3. Fix the Roots Before Planting Container trees are a mess most of the time. Roots spiral, kink, and choke themselves. Bare-root it if needed : Remove the pot, shake off loose soil, expose the structure. Cut circling or matted roots : Use a sharp blade, don’t baby it. You’re saving the tree from strangling itself. This is where arborists separate from landscapers—we care about long-term survival, not just “sticking it in the ground.” 4. Backfill With Native Soil (Not Fancy Bags) Here’s where people waste money: bagged topsoil, compost, peat mixes… skip it. Use the same dirt you dug out . Break up chunks and backfill evenly. Amendments can backfire, causing water to collect in the hole like a bathtub. If your soil sucks, fix the site , not just the hole. 5. Mulch Like a Pro (Not a Volcano) You’ve seen it—mulch piled like a volcano around the base. It traps moisture, invites fungus, and kills bark. Keep mulch 2-3 inches deep . Pull it back 3-6 inches from the trunk. Use real wood mulch if possible, not rubber junk. Mulch conserves moisture and prevents weeds— when done right. 6. Skip the Stake—Unless It’s Actually Needed Staking is mostly done wrong or overused. Only stake if: Tree can’t stand up on its own. Site is super windy or exposed. Use soft, flexible ties , and remove stakes after one season . Let the tree move naturally— it builds real strength in the trunk. 7. Water Deep and Infrequently Forget shallow daily sprinkles. Trees need deep, slow watering . 5–10 gallons per week  for young trees. Water at the drip line , not right at the trunk. Skip watering if soil is already moist 4–6" down. Overwatering is just as deadly as drought. Final Thoughts Most of the trees I remove were planted wrong. Not sick, not storm-damaged—just doomed from day one because somebody didn’t know what they were doing. If you want trees that actually thrive for decades, not just survive a few seasons, follow these steps or hire someone who does. Better yet, get a consult with an ISA-Certified Arborist before you plant . It'll save you money, time, and regret.

When most people in Louisville look at a tree, they see bark, leaves, maybe a few dead limbs. When a Certified Arborist  inspects a tree, we’re seeing risk , structure , disease , and liability . This isn’t guesswork—we’re trained to spot the stuff that can cost you thousands in damage or worse. Here’s what we’re actually looking for during a professional tree inspection in Louisville, KY : 1. Root Issues (The Underground Danger Zone) Healthy roots = stable tree. If the roots are compromised, the whole tree is suspect. Girdling roots : Roots growing in circles around the trunk choke the tree slowly. Eventually, it dies. Mushrooms at the base : Fungal growth is a red flag for root rot. That tree might already be dying from the bottom up. Soil movement or lifting : This can signal root plate failure—basically, the tree is starting to tip and will eventually fall. ⚠️ Most tree failures start underground, and you won’t see it unless you know what to look for. 2. Trunk Stability and Structural Integrity This is the spine of the tree. We check for: Cracks or splits : Vertical cracks in the trunk or major limbs are stress fractures. Left alone, they widen and fail. Decay pockets or hollows : Cavities don’t always mean the tree is unsafe—but they need evaluation. Conks (hard shelf fungi) : These are external signs of internal decay. If you see one, the inside might already be compromised. 3. Canopy Health and Branch Attachments We don’t just eyeball dead limbs. We assess how branches are attached and what kind of growth the tree has: Included bark : Weak branch unions that are likely to split under stress. Deadwood : A serious falling hazard—especially over homes, driveways, or sidewalks. Water sprouts and suckers : Often a sign the tree is stressed, damaged, or poorly pruned. 4. Pests and Disease (Common in Louisville) We deal with a lot of pest pressure in Kentucky, especially in hot, humid summers and after storms. Borer holes, sap bleeding, or sawdust (frass) : Signs of insect activity inside the tree. Leaf yellowing or spotting : Could be fungal disease, pest damage, or poor soil conditions. Cankers : Sunken or cracked spots that indicate the tree is fighting off infection. 5. Environmental Stress and Proximity Hazards Trees don’t grow in a vacuum. We assess what’s around them. Power line proximity : Critical in older Louisville neighborhoods with overhead service. Building clearance : Trees too close to roofs or gutters can cause rot, mold, and pest entry. Drainage and compaction : Poor grading, heavy equipment, or lawnmowers can silently kill roots. 6. Species-Specific Risks in Louisville Not all trees behave the same. Some of Louisville’s common species come with built-in risks: Bradford Pear  – Pretty but structurally garbage. Prone to splitting in storms. Silver Maple  – Fast-growing, weak wood. Dangerous over driveways or houses. White Oak  – Solid, but slow to show stress. By the time it looks bad, it is  bad. A certified arborist understands what to expect from each species and how they fail. Why It Matters in Louisville A tree inspection isn’t about upselling you a job you don’t need. It’s about catching problems before they cost you —in property damage, legal liability, or injury. An experienced arborist won’t just say, “This tree’s fine.” We’ll tell you: How long it’s got What it needs What your actual risk is And whether it’s worth saving Final Word: Don’t Wait for a Louisville Storm to Prove You Wrong Trees don’t just fall out of nowhere. There are always signs—you just need someone trained to see them. If it’s been more than a year since a certified pro looked at your trees—or you’ve noticed dead limbs, weird growth, or leaning— get a full inspection . Your house, wallet, and peace of mind will thank you. Need a Certified Tree Inspection in Louisville, KY? We’re ISA-certified , fully insured, and straight shooters. No fear-mongering. Just honest assessments and professional work. 📞 Call Shults Tree Service today  or book your inspection online.

Louisville, Kentucky, has been actively enhancing its urban tree canopy through various initiatives, recognizing the myriad benefits trees provide—from cooling urban heat islands to improving air quality and public health. Here's an overview of some key programs and organizations contributing to this green endeavor: 1. Louisville Grows Louisville Grows focuses on reforesting neighborhoods experiencing significant tree loss. Collaborating with community partners, they engage residents through door-to-door canvassing, educating them on tree selection, planting, and maintenance. Their efforts aim to rebuild the urban tree canopy in the most affected areas. Louisville Grows 2. MSD's Urban Reforestation Program The Metropolitan Sewer District (MSD) plants approximately 1,000 trees annually across Louisville and Jefferson County. Beyond enhancing water quality, these trees offer benefits such as shade, air purification, and wildlife habitats. MSD also provides grants to residents and organizations for tree planting projects, promoting community involvement in urban greening. Louisville MSD 3. TreesLouisville Dedicated to expanding the city's tree canopy, TreesLouisville partners with schools, businesses, and other organizations to raise awareness and plant trees. Their Residential Tree Rebate Program offers a $30 rebate to residents who purchase and plant shade trees, encouraging individual participation in canopy restoration. TreesLouisville 4. Louisville Tree Plan In response to a 2015 Urban Tree Canopy Assessment revealing rapid canopy decline, Louisville Metro Government, TreesLouisville, and other partners developed an Urban Forest Master Plan. This plan outlines strategies to increase tree planting, particularly in underserved neighborhoods, and emphasizes the importance of community engagement in maintaining a healthy urban forest. Louisville Tree Plan 5. Green Heart Louisville This innovative project studies the impact of urban greening on public health. By planting trees and shrubs in specific neighborhoods, researchers aim to determine how increased green spaces can improve air quality and reduce health risks like heart disease. The findings could have significant implications for urban planning and public health policies. Greenheart 6. Louisville Metro Urban Forestry Department The city's Urban Forestry team manages tree planting projects and offers volunteer opportunities for groups and organizations. They are committed to enhancing the urban forest through community involvement and provide resources for those interested in contributing to these efforts. Collectively, companies like Shults Tree Service, along with these initiatives, reflect Louisville's commitment to fostering a greener, healthier, and more livable city.  By engaging residents, leveraging partnerships, and implementing strategic plans, Louisville is making significant strides in restoring and preserving its urban tree canopy. Shults Tree Service plays a crucial role by providing professional tree care and maintenance, ensuring that newly planted trees thrive and contribute to the city’s environmental goals.

When storms roll in, trees are often one of the first things to take a hit. High winds, heavy rain, and lightning can weaken or uproot trees, causing dangerous situations for homeowners and property owners. But how can you tell if a tree is at risk of falling before the storm hits? Here are some key warning signs that your tree may be in danger. 1. Leaning Trees A slight lean in a tree is normal, but if a tree is suddenly leaning more than before or has an extreme tilt, it’s a red flag. This could indicate root damage or weakened structural integrity, making it more likely to topple over in high winds. What to look for: A new or worsening lean Exposed or lifted roots on one side Cracks in the soil around the base of the tree 2. Cracks or Splits in the Trunk Large cracks or deep splits in the trunk weaken a tree’s structure, making it more vulnerable to breaking under the stress of a storm. These cracks often form after previous storm damage, lightning strikes, or rapid growth that the tree can’t support. What to look for: Vertical cracks along the trunk Deep splits where branches attach to the trunk Bark peeling away from the crack 3. Dead or Hanging Branches Dead limbs are a major hazard, especially in strong winds. They can snap off and cause damage to homes, vehicles, power lines, or people below. If a tree has a lot of deadwood, it may already be in decline and more susceptible to falling. What to look for: Large, dead branches with no leaves (especially in the growing season) Branches hanging or stuck in the canopy Bark that is missing or peeling away from limbs 4. Weak or Unstable Root System A tree’s roots anchor it into the ground, and if they are damaged or weakened, the entire tree can fall over—sometimes even in moderate winds. Root rot, construction damage, and soil erosion can all contribute to an unstable root system. What to look for: Mushrooms or fungal growth at the base (a sign of decay) Exposed roots due to soil erosion Soft, spongy ground around the base of the tree 5. Hollow or Decayed Trunk A tree with internal decay might look fine on the outside but can be dangerously weak on the inside. Hollow trees can still stand for years, but their structural integrity is compromised, making them more likely to break in a storm. What to look for: Large cavities or hollows in the trunk Soft or crumbling wood around wounds Sawdust-like material at the base (a sign of insect activity) 6. Poor Branch Structure Some trees naturally grow in ways that make them more vulnerable to breaking. Trees with multiple trunks (co-dominant stems) or branches that grow in a tight V-shape can split apart under stress. What to look for: Two or more main trunks growing close together Weak, narrow angles where branches meet the trunk Large limbs extending too far from the main structure 7. Previous Storm Damage If a tree has been damaged by past storms, it may already be weakened and more likely to fail in the next storm. Old wounds can decay over time, making the tree structurally unsound. What to look for: Broken or missing limbs from previous storms Scars or missing bark from impact damage Trees that lost major branches but were never properly pruned What Should You Do If You Spot These Signs? If you notice any of these warning signs, don’t wait until the next storm to take action. A falling tree can cause severe damage, injuries, or even fatalities. Steps to Take: Inspect your trees regularly  – Check for these signs at least once a season, especially before storm season. Call a certified arborist  – A professional can assess the risk and recommend pruning, cabling, or removal if necessary. Remove hazardous trees before they fall  – It’s always safer (and cheaper) to remove a tree before it causes damage rather than after. Final Thoughts Trees are a beautiful and valuable part of any property, but when they become unstable, they turn into serious hazards. By spotting these warning signs early, you can take action to protect your home, family, and neighbors from storm-related tree damage. If you're concerned about a tree on your property, contact Shults Tree Service  for a professional assessment before the next storm hits.

Most people think tossing a bag of store-bought fertilizer at the base of a tree will make it happy. It might green things up for a few weeks, but long-term? You're just throwing money at a symptom. Trees need real food—organic, slow-release nutrients that support the soil, not just the tree. Here’s a breakdown of the best organic things  to feed your trees, what they actually do, and how not to screw it up. 1. Compost (The Gold Standard) What it does: Compost improves soil structure, feeds beneficial microbes, and provides a slow-release buffet of nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, and micronutrients. Use it right: Spread 2–4 inches thick in a donut shape around the drip line—not up against the trunk unless you want rot and pests. Why it's better than fertilizer: Chemical fertilizers give a sugar rush. Compost builds long-term soil health, which is where trees actually get their nutrition. 2. Mulch (The Silent Workhorse) What it does: Wood chips and shredded bark protect roots, regulate temperature, retain moisture, and feed the soil as they break down. Best option: Fresh arborist wood chips. Free, local, and biologically diverse. Not dyed or bagged trash from Home Depot. Pro tip: 4 inches deep, wide as the drip line. Keep 6 inches away from the trunk. Volcano mulching kills trees. 3. Worm Castings (Nature’s Multivitamin) What it does: Packed with bioavailable nutrients and beneficial microbes. Helps with root development and disease resistance. Use it right: Top-dress in spring or mix lightly into compost tea. Cost warning: Not cheap, but a little goes a long way. Focus it on younger trees or those under stress. 4. Compost Tea (If You’re Serious About Soil Life) What it does: Delivers living organisms directly into the soil. Stimulates root growth, boosts immunity, and accelerates nutrient uptake. Use it right: Make your own or buy it fresh. Apply as a root drench or foliar spray. Needs to be used within 24 hours of brewing. Bonus: You can make it from your own compost—cheap and powerful if done right. 5. Fish Emulsion & Seaweed Extract (Liquid Rocket Fuel) What it does: Fast-acting, organic nitrogen from fish; potassium, micronutrients, and growth hormones from kelp. Good for young trees or mid-season boosts. Use it right: Dilute properly. Overuse can burn roots or attract critters. Pro tip: Apply early morning or late afternoon to avoid leaf burn. 6. Manure (But Only If It’s Aged) What it does: Nitrogen-rich, adds organic matter. Especially good for fruit trees. Use it right: Only use well-aged manure. Fresh manure is high in ammonia and salts = root killer. Best types: Cow, horse, chicken (aged), or rabbit. Avoid anything with bedding mixed in unless composted first. 7. Biochar (If You’re In It for the Long Game) What it does: Improves soil structure, holds moisture, and becomes a long-term home for beneficial microbes. Use it right: Pre-charge it with compost tea or fish emulsion before applying. Otherwise it can rob nitrogen at first. Think of it as: A soil amendment, not a fertilizer. Great for poor or sandy soils. Bonus: What NOT to Feed Your Trees Fresh grass clippings  – Too much nitrogen and they mat up. Synthetic fertilizer spikes  – Too hot, kills microbes. Colored or rubber mulch  – Pure landfill garbage. Coffee grounds in piles  – Too acidic and hydrophobic. Final Thoughts: Trees Feed Themselves—If You Feed the Soil Organic feeding isn’t about dumping stuff on a tree. It’s about restoring and feeding the soil ecosystem  that supports it. You want deep roots, strong limbs, and disease resistance? Start thinking like nature. Feed your trees the way forests feed themselves: slow, steady, and organic.

At first glance, Plant Health Care (PHC) sounds like a good thing. After all, who doesn't want healthy, vibrant trees? But behind the marketing buzzwords and green branding, there's a less talked-about side of PHC: the heavy use of chemicals that can do more harm than good. If you've hired a company to "treat" your trees, there's a high chance they’re injecting or spraying them with synthetic fertilizers, insecticides, fungicides, or growth regulators. Here's the raw truth: those chemicals can hurt your trees, your soil, and your health. 1. Soil Biology Gets Nuked Trees aren’t just above-ground structures — they’re part of a living ecosystem. The soil beneath them is alive with fungi, bacteria, and microorganisms that trees rely on for nutrient cycling and disease resistance. But when synthetic chemicals are dumped into that system? You're not just targeting pests or disease — you're carpet bombing the whole microbiome. Repeated chemical use kills off the beneficial soil life, turning rich, living soil into sterile dirt. That leads to trees becoming chemically dependent , needing more and more treatments to survive in the damaged environment you just created. 2. Pest Resistance Gets Worse, Not Better Chemical insecticides create a short-term drop in pest populations, but long-term? They backfire. Pests evolve. They build resistance. So now you're locked into stronger doses, more frequent applications, and rising costs. Meanwhile, beneficial predators — like ladybugs, lacewings, or parasitic wasps — get wiped out by the same sprays, leaving your trees even more vulnerable. You’re not solving the problem — you’re feeding it. 3. Over-Fertilization Can Kill Tree companies love to recommend "deep root fertilization" — usually with high-nitrogen synthetic formulas. The result? Fast, weak, unnatural growth Poor structure Increased risk of storm damage Greater attraction for pests and disease And if the dosage is wrong? Salt-based fertilizers can literally burn roots, causing decline and death. Ask yourself: are you growing a tree or pumping it up like a steroid junkie? 4. Human and Pet Exposure Is Real Those cute little "Do Not Enter" flags? They’re not for show. Chemical treatments can linger on bark, leaves, and soil. Children and pets playing in the yard are exposed to residues. Runoff during rainstorms pushes toxins into storm drains, streams, and groundwater. You’re not just treating a tree. You’re dosing your whole property — and potentially your neighbors'. 5. Trees Are Not Lawns — Stop Treating Them Like Grass Most PHC programs are just glorified lawn-care playbooks applied to trees: spray, fertilize, repeat. But trees are complex, long-lived organisms. They need balance , not brute-force treatments. Real tree care starts with proper pruning, soil management, mulching, and understanding species-specific needs — not just plugging a hose into a tank. So What Should You Do Instead? Get a proper tree assessment.  Look at soil health, root flare, compaction, drainage, and pruning needs. Use organic inputs sparingly and wisely.  Compost, biochar, mycorrhizal inoculants — not synthetic NPK bombs. Focus on prevention.  Right tree, right place, proper planting, proper pruning. Work with an arborist who understands ecology, not just chemistry. Bottom Line If your PHC program relies on regular chemical applications, you're not maintaining tree health — you're managing a dependency. Tree care shouldn't come with a Material Safety Data Sheet and a hazmat suit. It should come with knowledge, precision, and respect for the ecosystem your tree lives in. If you care about your trees, your soil, your health, and your wallet — ditch the chemical crutches  and work with someone who actually understands trees. Want help from someone who puts tree biology over chemical sales? Reach out to Shults Tree Service . We climb trees, not chemical ladders.